Day Trip: Segovia, Castile and León, Spain

 

One of my first substantial day trips was to Segovia, a city located in the province of Castile and León. It took about 30 minutes from Madrid to Segovia by high speed train (it travels approx. 200 mph at certain points) and from the train station, it’s about a 15 minute bus ride to the center of Segovia. Segovia is possibly the oldest city I have visited, possibly dating back to 75 BCE, and the oldest part (founded by the Romans) is a UNESCO world heritage site.

Since Romans founded the city hundreds of years ago, it’s no surprise that some of the oldest structures still intact in Segovia were built by the Romans. The Roman aqueduct that separates the new city from the old city. Built between the 1st and 2nd century AD, the aqueduct still streches over 700 yards, which is incredible considering it’s age. My travel companion L and I walked from one to the other, which while not difficult because of length, was somewhat difficult because of the changes in elevation. Needless to say, it was worth it though.

(From upper left, clockwise: A view from center of town, the Alcazar (one end of the aqueduct), the other end of the aqueduct, another view from the center)

One of the next most striking features of Segovia, is the massive Alcazar, a castle built by Spanish royalty in the early 12th century. The Alcazar is now open to the public so we explored the royal chambers and the highest tower, which was previous used as a prison.

Also on the older end of Segovia is the Cathedral. This is a massive complex featuring over a dozen altars, each dedicated to a different, a museum, and a courtyard.

Segovia is an amazing little city to escape the international feel of Madrid and experience something closer to the “real” Spain. Lastly, I leave you with a pine cone wall and a view of the country just beyond the walls of Segovia.

My First Week in Food

Those that know me well know that food, both preparing and consuming it, is a passion of mine. Many gastronomes consider Spanish cuisine to be of some of the highest quality, both in ingredients and flavor, in the world. So part of my desire in coming to Spain, was to expand my adventure in the food world; to experience a cuisine different than mine and throw my hat into the ring of preparing a new type of food. That being said, here’s my first week in Madrid, with a look at the food I’ve been eating.

*Note: the pictures of lower quality, are mine, whereas the better looking ones are stock photos. I haven’t gotten used to taking my camera everywhere nor taking pictures of food that I have not made.
 
First meal over the Atlantic: a chicken with seasoned rice dish, served with a Caesar salad, a semi-frozen roll, and a small package of Milano cookies.

The airplane dinner, served by the wonderful flight attendants of United Airlines.

First meal in Spain (technically): a croissant with a small side of fruit, also served by the flight attendants of United.

We were flying over Spain when breakfast was served so I suppose, by a technicality, this was my first meal in Spain.

First meal in Madrid: Potatoes with Fried Eggs and Chorizo, Paella, and Coquettes; with a caña of Mahou

I touched down during the early afternoon, and promptly made dinner plans with some fellow folks in the program for 8pm; a tad early for a Madrid dinner, but some of us were jetlagged and wanted to get to bed early. We asked the receptionist at our hostel for a dinner recommendation and she mentioned a good tapas place. Tapas means small dishes in Spanish, and that is a good definition of what they are. Tapas are just small plates of food, meant to be shared with your friends while you drink. We each ordered one thing off the menu, I chose the potato dish, and shared it. The potato dish that I ordered came up first and it was rather disappointing. It was literally fried potatoes, next to two fried eggs, and a strip of Chorizo, talk about uneventful. Coquettes came up next which are a potato dish, filled with different items, in our case ham and cheese, and then deep fried.
Very unhealthy, but quite tasty. Lastly we got a small dish of paella mixta. Paella is a rice dish, similar to risotto, that was invented in Valencia, Spain and incorporates rice with stock, meat, and the important spice, Saffron. Our paella came with seafood and chicken, and was not bad, but was overly salted.

Of course, with our tapas, we all had cañas (about a half pint of beer) of Mahou, the beer of Madrid.

Mahou is best described as if Budweiser and Busch light were to have a love child. Needless to say, I am not impressed by this Spanish beer. I will however, continue to try other beers here until I find a drinkable substitute for our wonderful selection back in the States.

First meal that I prepared: Chicken Caesar Salad

After the first few days of fried, carbohydrate heavy, food, I really craved a salad. So I picked up some chicken that I sautéed, added some lettuce, and dressing, and had myself a chicken Caesar salad. Of course I needed some bread though, so I had some baguette with goat cheese.


Favorite dish, so far: Tortilla Española

At the moment, I am really loving tortilla here. It’s simply potatoes, onions, cheese, and eggs, but it is so good. I could eat it for every meal, if it was acceptable.


Favorite meal: Doner Kebab

My favorite meal included a dish called Doner Kebab. Think a gyro (chicken or lamb), with a salad, all coated in a hot sauce and a garlic sauce. Absolutely delicious, and horrible for your health. Served with French fries, that you can coat in even more garlic sauce, and a Coke made with real sugar. I’m drooling just writing about it.


Trashiest meal: the following Monstrosity

Cook noodles that you got from the Spanish equivalent of a dollar store, add some ground beef, cheese from northern Spain, and of course, a delicate sauce of ketchup, and you have yourself one, extremely, trashy meal.

First Week in Madrid

It has been a whirlwind of a week here in Madrid; from getting off the plane 8 days ago, to finding a piso (room in an apartment), to making new friends, cooking abroad for the first time, exploring the city that is my new home for the next 9 months, and successfully finding a way to watch the Wolverines beat their opponents.
I can only imagine it’ll get crazier once I start working.

Bank of Spain

I should begin work on Monday, but a few issues are complicating that. First, my lack of a schedule. I called both my schools on Thursday and Friday, IES Juana de Castilla said that I’ll be getting my schedule over the weekend, and the secretary at IES Las Musas said the principal would call me back in an hour, well that never happened. Regardless, I’m showing up to one of the schools on Monday, whether they like it or not.

IES Juana de Castilla

IES Las Musas

The second factor complicating the start of work is the an ongoing strike in secondary education. Spain is suffering a horrible economic recession, and in an effort to cut spending, the provincial government of Madrid has asked teachers to work 2 hours more per week, without an increase in pay. While this doesn’t seem like much, it means more students per week, less teachers (they are firing teachers too), and less qualified teachers (the government is firing the more expensive, qualified teachers).

Striking at Juana de Castilla

The first sign says “it isn’t two hours more, it’s 3000 less jobs/workers” and the second sign says “it isn’t two hours more, it’s an attack on public education and a benefit to private education”. It’ll be interesting to see how this turns out.

Today I’m going to a Spanish barbeque hosted by Felipe’s friend, so it should be an interesting day. Expect more posts during the week in the future, once I have a more definitive schedule the posts should improve in both quality and quantity. I’m also adding some pictures to previous posts, so take a look for some updates.

Apartment

So on my second day in Madrid, I found an apartment! According to the other people in the program here, I've set the record for the quickest arrival and finding a place. I actually sort of found the place by luck. I signed up for a site that lets you post announcements for what kind of room you are looking for, and then you can contact people and they can contact you. I did this my first afternoon here, and by that evening I had an appointment setup for the place. The next afternoon, I took the Metro for the first time, didn't get lost either, and checked it out. The room is small but has everything I need. Kitchen is completely stocked with gadgets but small on counter-top. But the main things were that the apartment is in a great location, 5 minute walk from the Metro I need to take, and the people are really nice. I'll be living with Felipe, who owns the apartment, and Tiffany who is another renter. Felipe taught Spanish in London last year through the same program as this one, and Tiffany is teaching French in Madrid through the program too. Felipe speaks English and Spanish, while Tiffany speaks French, English, and Spanish, so I'll get to practice my Spanish a lot but also can communicate in English when necessary.

My little corner of Madrid.

This is where we dry our clothes.

The European kitchen

The cozy living room

View of our street.

Other side of the view of our street.

My attempt at being artsy outside my window.

Gotta get ready to find a way to watch Michigan beat San Diego State. ¡Viva azul!

First Post from Madrid

At the moment, I'm sitting in the basement of my hostel in Madrid, searching for apartments all the while avoiding falling asleep. I've spent 12 of the last 15 hours flying, and this jet lag is sure taking a toll on me. Well here's a little bit about my trip, and my first impression of this country known as Spain.

Detroit -> Newark
I avoided the full body scanner again at Detroit! Thankfully someone needed to take a coffee break so just a quick scan through the magnetometer, and I was on my way. I ended up being 2 hours early for my flight, but I love Detroit Metro airport, so I was fine with this. The flight was relatively uneventful other than I, for the first time, didn't have someone sitting next to me. So that was amazing to stretch out; which, came in handy when we hit some of the worst turbulence I ever experienced.

Newark -> Madrid
Alright, I don't like Newark airport. The bathrooms are far flung and quite dirty, not to mention how crowded and loud the whole place is. My flight ended up being delayed an hour, while we were on the plane, due to electrical issues (ahh!!!) and a near fight about three rows in front of me. The fight was over two family members who purchased middle row seats directly in front of each other, but being in the middle, they blocked a family from sitting with their children. Why anyone would want a middle seat, I don't know, but it ended with a police officer coming on the plane to calm them down, and the family with children sitting together (after the others realized the kids wouldn't stop crying). Other than that the flight was uneventful, and I even managed to fall asleep for a few minutes. I sat next to two Spanish citizens, that have lived all over the world. They gave me their email addresses before we parted ways, so perhaps I'll contact them if/when I visit Barcelona (where they live). It also turns out the girl directly in front of me on the flight is also part of the program, but we didn't realize this until the last two minutes of an 8+hour trip.

First Impressions
So far, all the madrileños (people of Madrid) I have encountered have been super friendly and helpful. The taxi driver gave me some sage advice on what to do/what not to do at night. The hostel check-in person made a point to learn my name and has remembered it since. Even the maids in the hostel have been super helpful. On the negative side, what is it with Madrid's lack of proper elevators. Why do you put an elevator on the 1st floor, and not start it on the ground floor?! I encountered this both at the airport and the hostel. Also, air conditioning...if you have it, use it. It is hot.

Alright time for a quick siesta before my first Skype date con mi madre. Adios.

Visa

I have my visa. Now just gotta get home to Detroit.

First Crisis (Adverted) and Synopsis of First Adventure

 

First, my apologizes for the neglect. I’m sure my five or so readers have been wondering what has kept me. I blame it on my last few weeks of work and getting stuff ready to leave. I promise to do better.

Today we adverted the first of many crises that I’m sure that I’ll experience before and during my adventure. Two days ago, the webcam on my laptop failed to work. Seeing as I’m planning on using Skype to talk to family and friends, a webcam is quite the necessity; in addition, my laptop was only three months (and three days) old at the time, so a hardware failure could be the sign of things to come. I contacted HP today, they offered to repair my laptop, but it would take a minimum of 6 business days, time that I cannot afford. Given this situation, my best option was to backup my files, wipe the hard drive, and return it for a new one. Unfortunately, Costco has a strict “no electronics return after 90” policy and my laptop was purchased 93 days ago. As you can see this became a problem. However, thanks to the wonderful people at the Roseville Costco (shout out) I have a new, better, computer in hand. So hopefully this computer can make it through the adventures I’m about to throw at it.

Tomorrow we (the laptop and I) venture to Chicago to pickup my passport with the affixed Spanish student visa. Now some of you might be thinking, why a student visa?, I thought you were working in Spain. Well great question folks, my best explanation is that the program considers us as continuing our education (probably to avoid taxes) and because of this, we need student visas. I’m sure student visas also take less work on the Spanish government end, both from issuing and providing us the necessary paperwork, and if I know one thing about Spain, their bureaucracy tries to avoid work. The following video may help illustrate this conclusion.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some of you may also be asking, “why do you have to go to Chicago to get your visa?”. Again, another fine question, you guys are great! Well the answer lies in how Spanish visas are processed. To apply, you must follow the protocol of the Spanish Consulate that has consular jurisdiction of your residence. The Chicago consulate has jurisdiction over Michigan, thus I must make friends with them. Chicago requires the following documents for a student visa:

• National Visa Application Form, plus (US Citizens: 1 PHOTOCOPY). Before being copied, the form must be signed and filled out in print. Illegible or incomplete forms cannot be accepted. Information on date of arrival in Spain #21 is essential.
• US citizens: Original Passport signed by the bearer and still valid for at least 1 more year from the date of application, with at least one blank page to affix the visa.
• Proof of residence in this Consulate´s jurisdiction Photocopy of ONE of the following: U.S. Driver´s License, U.S. State ID Card or Voter´s Registration Card.
• Recent standard passport  photographs: US citizens: 2 photos. GLUE one photograph to each visa form.( DO NOT STAPLE THE PHOTOGRAPH)
• Proof of admission to Spanish Academic Center as a full-time student, from the Spanish Center or U.S program, indicating nature of studies and registration number of the center of studies with the Ministry of Education (if not registered, state so)
• Proof of financial means for the period of stay in Spain, proof could be:
• Proof of Medical/Accidental Insurance with international coverage, Written confirmation from insurance company of a valid health/accidental insurance with full international coverage in Spain and rest of Schengen countries with a minimum coverage of $37,000. Or Travel/accidental insurance coverage for the entire trip.
• 8. Medical Statement (only if your stay is for more than 6 months ) : a doctor’s recent statement (issued within 3 months from the application date), on doctor's or medical center's letterhead, indicating that  "the student has been found to be free of any of the illnesses that may have serious public consequences, as described and established in the International Health Regulations of 2005".
• Non-refundable visa processing fee. Money Order ONLY, payable to the Consulate General of Spain. Personal checks, credit cards nor cash can be accepted. US citizens: $140.00.
• If period of study in Spain is longer than 6 months, FBI Background Check notarized and legalized by the "Apostille of the Hague" (Local police background checks are no longer accepted as of June 15, 2010). If the applicant resided in a country other than the U.S., then you must present Certificate (s) by Police authorities of ALL PLACES where applicant resided during the more than six months during the last five years, as to absence of police record. If the country is not the U.S., the certificate must be legalized by the Spanish Consulate in that country

Of these items, only the italicized items are provided to us by the program, everything else is up to us. The majority of the items provided no issues, fill this out, staple this, take a picture, pay this, but, the FBI background check proved to be a whole adventure in itself.

To receive the proper FBI background check one must: get fingerprinted, fill out form to FBI (including a note for them to certify the results), wait 6-8 weeks for said form, pray that you don’t have a record, fill out State Department form, attach completed background check, give State Department a $8 check, send background check to State Department, wait the estimated 8 days, begin freaking out after 2 weeks, attempt to call/email them, begin process again with hopes of getting new background check to friend in D.C. to do walk-in service, receive background check after 4 weeks, mail new background check to friend, receive processed background check from the State Department hours later (after 6 weeks), ask friend to send forms back, and finally you get to relax. In that process I missed a visa appointment, forcing me to reschedule twice.

After acquiring the documents, one must come to Chicago. Many consulates will allow out-of-state persons to mail in documents, however the Chicago consulate likes to meet you. So one day last August I drove 6 hours, paid $26 to park for four hours, dragged my body through the record setting 106 degree heat, found the consulate, turned in the paperwork (took all of 10 minutes), decided to go to Art Museum for culture (mainly to cool off), and then drove the 6 hours back home with some photocopies of your documents, that you made, and missing your passport. Chicago completed my visa in about 2 weeks, and now it’s time to return to retrieve my passport con un visado. So today, 9/13, I’m flying from Detroit to Chicago at 10 am, picking up my passport and visa, hopefully spending some time in the city, and returning home to Detroit at 4 pm. Believe it or not, the flight is cheaper and, obviously, faster than the drive to Chicago. Advice: fly to Chicago Midway if you need to go to the city.

In a few hours, read 8 pm, I should be posting a picture of my visa, meaning successful completion of my first adventure. If you don’t see said picture, I may still be struggling in red tape, send help…please…